If you were a “good” angler in 2014, perhaps Old Saint Nick dropped off a new set of high-end fishing or hunting waders. But let’s suppose that your behavior was not unlike mine, and somehow you ended up on the bubble of Santa’s “Naughty or Nice” list.
In past years I must have operated under the delusion that the best time to discover a hole or tear in my boots or waders was when I’d be out trying to catch fish or shoot a duck. All that did was morph my toes into ice cubes. Soggy socks and chilly feet have cured me of that wrongheadedness. Now is the perfect time to take a beat and check the integrity of your waders.
Obvious rips and punctures in your waders are easy to spot and fix. But when the seepage is far more insidious, locating the leak takes a little more effort. The first thing I do is carefully inspect, inch by inch, the exterior surface of the waders for signs of damage. In a dark room shine a flashlight on the suspected area and see if you notice a ray of light sneaking through.
Another trick I’ve heard fishermen try (and a couple of manufacturers suggest) is to fill the waders with water to find the breach. Even though I’ve never tried it, I don’t much care for this method since a) the water pressure may put unnecessary stress on the seams, increasing the possibility that the seams could weaken or separate; and b) now that you have your waders full of water, you’re required to dry them. And although the seams of quality breathable waders are probably strong enough to handle this experiment, why take a chance?
Here is my preferred way to find a small hole: fill a large bucket or tub with water, cinch up the top of the waders around the nozzle of a shop vac, making sure you’ve reversed the hose to make it blow air, not suck it in. The trick is to fill the waders with air while they’re submersed in the water, looking for bubbles caused by air escaping through any leaks. If your waders are past their prime, battle weary from years of soaking in the Atlantic suds or trudging through the Chesapeake marsh, odds are fair a weak seam could blow out. Better in your home shop than out in the field.
To repair the pinhole, dab fast-curing adhesive into the hole, even rubbing it in between the fabric, es pecially with neoprene. I’ve had good luck with Aquaseal products, such as the company’s Gear Aid Aquaseal Wader Repair Kit for emergency, on-the-water repairs. The kit and most others in this category are compact enough to fit in your wader pouch, gear bag, or vest pockets.
I have yet to have a need for it but nonetheless now carry the new SG-20 Wader Repair Kit ($19.99) from Vettec, Inc. in my waterfowl bag. I shouldn’t admit it, but I have a weird desire to try the kit in the field. Maybe it’s because the double-barrel, 20cc dispensing applicator looks cool.
According to Vettec, SG-20 is a propriety blend of two-part polyurethane adhesives that works on many materials, including neoprene, rubber, and canvas. The dispensing cartridge releases equal parts of the adhesive with precision. The three mixing tips and a contouring plastic sheet help ensure a smooth finish. SG-20 can be used multiple times while remaining shelf stable one year, with field repairs lasting several years.
Whatever goo you choose, take your time to thoroughly work it into the hole. If you need to fix a tear or large hole, use the patch material that accompanied your waders. Using a patch on the outside or inside of the waders is probably more of a Chevy-Ford thing. Patch both sides, especially around areas like the crotch that are subject to a lot of opposite movement.
If your expensive, breathable waders pop a seam, send them back to the factory. Fishermen talented at home remedies have told me they’ve successfully used a hot-glue gun to re-melt the existing glue or applied a new layer of the sticky stuff. This technique is over my paid grade, so I opt for having an expert fix them, unless they’re too far gone. In that case, I buy new waders. (As a side note, if your breathable waders have lost some their water repellency, it is almost always due to age and use. Use water to test if they bead up. If not, carefully follow instructions on how best to restore your waders to effectively repel water. I’ve had good luck with Nikwax, though there are several good products on the market.)
Finding and fixing a pin-hole leak isn’t aerospace engineering, but it does take patience. Only the most hardcore among us carry a spare set of waders, and then usually only if we plan to hunt or fish for multiple days, away from civilization. So if the jolly yet judgmental fat man saw fit to blaze by your crib, forcing you to make do for another season with your well-worn waders, do yourself a favor and pack a quality repair kit.