Your pride and joy sits on the driveway glistening on her trailer, just waiting for you to put the coupler on the ball, lock the latching mechanism, hook up the safety chains, and head to the launch ramp. If you’ve done your homework before you hit the road, chances are good that you’ll make it there without any drama. But just to be safe, let’s review the basics.
First off,
never exceed the load capacity of your trailer or the towing capacity of your vehicle. Prudence would suggest that you stay at about 85 percent of maximum capacity for each. When calculating your boat’s weight relative to the trailer’s load capacity, be certain to include the weight of the motor and any fuel or water, as well as all equipment, angling gear, or water toys that will be carried in the boat.
Next,
be sure to position the boat correctly making certain that it’s level to avoid warping and flexing. Position the bunks and rollers in important areas, such as the engine and chine. Check to see that they’re not going to scratch or dent the hull. Obviously, the boat’s transom must be well supported, but that’s especially true if you’ve got an outboard or inboard-outboard motor. If you’ve just purchased the boat from a dealer, this should all be done for you, but go over it once yourself for good measure and to note for future trips where the bunks and roller touch the hull.
Distribute weight properly. This is important for safe driving. If there’s too much weight forward on the ball, the vehicle will be difficult to steer, and you run the risk of damaging its suspension. Conversely, if there’s not enough weight on the ball because the weight is too far to the rear, traction may be reduced, and the trailer may fishtail. Remember that weight distribution can be effected not only by the position of the boat on the trailer, b
ut also by the amount of water and fuel in the tanks and by how gear is stowed within the boat. The weight of the trailer tongue on the hitch is called its tongue weight; it should be seven to 12 percent of the weight of the trailer and boat fully loaded.
Secure her well. The winch cable alone is not enough; use two strong straps to secure the bow and stern to the trailer. Nothing should be left loose on the deck or in the cockpit. Remove or secure all items, including angling gear and PFDs, and protect the boat with a tight fitting cover.
Don’t skip the safety chains. They should run criss-cross from the car to the trailer coupling, with enough slack for turning. These little babies could save you from disaster in the unlikely, yet potentially catastrophic, event of a hitch failure.
Before you hit the road,
sit in the driver’s seat of the vehicle and make sure the rear view mirrors are wide enough on both sides to provide an unobstructed view. Double check the trailer’s brake, turn, and reverse lights. Remember that when backing up, the trailer will move in the opposite direction of the car. If you are new to trailering, it’s a good idea to practice turning, stopping, and backing up before you take her out on the open road.
Once you’re out there, you’ll find that all maneuvers take a little more time, so
reduce your speed. We never endorse tailgating, but especially not with a trailer. Because your turning radius will be greater, swing wider at corners and turns, and don’t forget to leave plenty of extra room when passing.
For trips across multiple states,
check the regulation in each state for such items as trailer brakes (required on one, two, or three axles?) and maximum beam. Laws vary by state. If your route takes you over big hills, much like driving a truck, you may need to shift to a lower gear when going downhill. Every time you stop for fuel, check the boat and trailer to make sure nothing has jiggled loose. That includes straps, lug nuts on the tires, nuts and bolts on the frame, and safety chains. When travel requires an overnight stop, backing the boat up against a wall will make it difficult, if not impossible, for a boat thief to attach your trailer to his vehicle.
First off, never exceed the load capacity of your trailer or the towing capacity of your vehicle. Prudence would suggest that you stay at about 85 percent of maximum capacity for each. When calculating your boat’s weight relative to the trailer’s load capacity, be certain to include the weight of the motor and any fuel or water, as well as all equipment, angling gear, or water toys that will be carried in the boat.
Next, be sure to position the boat correctly making certain that it’s level to avoid warping and flexing. Position the bunks and rollers in important areas, such as the engine and chine. Check to see that they’re not going to scratch or dent the hull. Obviously, the boat’s transom must be well supported, but that’s especially true if you’ve got an outboard or inboard-outboard motor. If you’ve just purchased the boat from a dealer, this should all be done for you, but go over it once yourself for good measure and to note for future trips where the bunks and roller touch the hull.
Distribute weight properly. This is important for safe driving. If there’s too much weight forward on the ball, the vehicle will be difficult to steer, and you run the risk of damaging its suspension. Conversely, if there’s not enough weight on the ball because the weight is too far to the rear, traction may be reduced, and the trailer may fishtail. Remember that weight distribution can be effected not only by the position of the boat on the trailer, b
ut also by the amount of water and fuel in the tanks and by how gear is stowed within the boat. The weight of the trailer tongue on the hitch is called its tongue weight; it should be seven to 12 percent of the weight of the trailer and boat fully loaded.
Secure her well. The winch cable alone is not enough; use two strong straps to secure the bow and stern to the trailer. Nothing should be left loose on the deck or in the cockpit. Remove or secure all items, including angling gear and PFDs, and protect the boat with a tight fitting cover.
Don’t skip the safety chains. They should run criss-cross from the car to the trailer coupling, with enough slack for turning. These little babies could save you from disaster in the unlikely, yet potentially catastrophic, event of a hitch failure.
Before you hit the road, sit in the driver’s seat of the vehicle and make sure the rear view mirrors are wide enough on both sides to provide an unobstructed view. Double check the trailer’s brake, turn, and reverse lights. Remember that when backing up, the trailer will move in the opposite direction of the car. If you are new to trailering, it’s a good idea to practice turning, stopping, and backing up before you take her out on the open road.
Once you’re out there, you’ll find that all maneuvers take a little more time, so reduce your speed. We never endorse tailgating, but especially not with a trailer. Because your turning radius will be greater, swing wider at corners and turns, and don’t forget to leave plenty of extra room when passing.
For trips across multiple states, check the regulation in each state for such items as trailer brakes (required on one, two, or three axles?) and maximum beam. Laws vary by state. If your route takes you over big hills, much like driving a truck, you may need to shift to a lower gear when going downhill. Every time you stop for fuel, check the boat and trailer to make sure nothing has jiggled loose. That includes straps, lug nuts on the tires, nuts and bolts on the frame, and safety chains. When travel requires an overnight stop, backing the boat up against a wall will make it difficult, if not impossible, for a boat thief to attach your trailer to his vehicle.