38.990, -76.440 So close to Annapolis, yet so far…

As a respite from the hum and buzz of downtown Annapolis, Whitehall Bay beckons from a mere three miles away. Large, reasonably deep, and protected from winds from the west, north, and east, Whitehall Bay marks the confluence of Mill, Whitehall, and Meredith Creeks and lies southwest of the Bay Bridge. Half an hour, more or less, opens up a world far removed from boat show crowds. The anchorage embraces many boats, leaving ample space for solitude, friendly rendezvous, or rolly raft-ups.

The entrance to Whitehall Bay is deep, narrow, with shoals on either side, and popular with watermen, so sailors should pay attention to the channel markers, plentiful crab pots, and their charts. Many locals like to head out for lunch, dinner, or even a quick swim in the relatively nettle-free water. While southerly winds and powerboat traffic can make the anchorage choppy, Whitehall Bay makes for a relaxing overnight stop in settled weather. The land from Meredith Creek to Hackett Point is largely undeveloped, leaving a shoreline laden with trees during the day and darkness at night. Traffic from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge twinkles in the distance, but sounds only a distant rumble. And city lights are far enough removed to allow some stargazing.

At the confluence of Whitehall and Meredith Creeks sits the 250-year-old estate of Whitehall. Originally built by Provincial Governor Horatio Sharpe, who returned to England in 1773, the house and estate were restored to their colonial appearance in the late 20th century by Charles Scarlett, Jr. and recently opened to the public on a limited basis. To the southeast wraps a spit of beach ending at Hackett Point. Birds, fish, and boaters with shallow-draft vessels love to explore the shallows in this area. Migrating waterfowl hang out here in abundance in the fall. Osprey frequently dive for fish just off the bow, while cormorants and bald eagles grace the sky. We like to hang out here with friends—a quick trip away from the dock when all of us get too caught up in land life to get any farther away. The kids like to roam about in kayaks or dinghies, while the adults chat or fish or tinker with their latest gadgets.

Whitehall is usually friendly and familiar, especially when the wind is down. It’s fun to explore, too. A while ago, a boater near Baltimore shouted out to us, “Welcome to Maryland, where the crabs are hot and the beer is cold.” Exploring Mill Creek reminds me of that. While all the creeks leading to Whitehall Bay are neat to explore (a dinghy ride up Whitehall Creek reaches all the way to Route 50), an outing up Mill Creek leads straight to Cantler’s Riverside Inn. Less visited and much shallower is a trip around Hackett Point to Goose Pond, which is neither a pond nor particularly laden with geese. Instead, it is the small body of water directly off the Bay that almost turns Hackett Point into Hackett Island.

In late August, we braved some chop in our dinghy to round the point and enjoy a great view of the looming Bay Bridge. Some of our friends recommended low-tide beachcombing here. They found old glass bottles and other trash treasures near the low water mark. We found a beach ball probably washed down from Sandy Point. All in all, Whitehall Bay is a diamond in the rough, wonderful in the right winds, with room to welcome boaters needing some calm away from the buzz of Naptown.

by Tracy Leonard

Photo by Tracy Leonard

The Creeks

Those who aren’t from the Chesapeake may think what we call “creeks” look more like lakes or rivers. They’re tributaries, really, but if you want to speak the local language, stick to “creeks.” Three of them flow into Whitehall Bay: from west to east, Mill, Whitehall, and Meredith. All three are navigable, even to deep-draft boats (up to eight or so feet); but all three have narrow, S-curve entrances. Mill Creek is most well-known for its Maryland-style crab restaurant, Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn (where you may dock for free if you’re a customer). Once you’re done cracking crabs and splattering yourself with Old Bay and cocktail sauce, it’s worth exploring beyond the restaurant. The neighboring Whitehall Creek splits into a “Y” at Ridout Creek; both are great for paddling or setting the anchor for a lunchtime swim. Meredith is the narrowest and quietest of the three creeks. Around every leafy corner, you may ask yourself, “How far does this creek go back?” You’ll run into mud eventually, so mind your depth. When checking out any of these areas, be mindful of the residents. Keep your speed down and keep an eye out for kids on boats, fishermen, kayakers, personal watercraft, and paddleboarders. ~M.W.